Travels

Gandhi Smriti

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It seemed right to visit Gandhi Smriti. I had been before, but at times when the world had been less volatile, less dangerous, and less polarized. Now, when the voices of conflict and separateness are drowning out messages of peace and unity, it felt like an appropriate time to connect with the Mahatma’s message of non-violence in the place in which he died in 1948. There were almost no other visitors. 104 degrees, the hottest time of the day, and Delhi’s tourists and residents alike were wisely staying out of the sun.

Old Birla House, as it used to be known, is where Gandhi spent the last 144 days of his life and where, on 30th January 1948, he was shot to death by Nathuram Godse. It has been turned into a simple, slightly old fashioned, but powerful memorial to someone venerated in Indian society and around the world. At its heart is the austere living quarters that Gandhi occupied in his final months and the path, marked by cut-outs of his footprints, to the place he was assassinated as he walked to his daily prayer site. Elsewhere in the house is a museum where his life and achievements are summarized. I learned something new on this visit, that one of my favorite photographers, the great Henri Cartier Bresson, was one of the last people to meet Gandhi before the assassination, just a few minutes before the shots were fired.

The Healy Pass

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The devastating famine that struck Ireland in the mid-1840s shamed the British government into devising initiatives to try to alleviate some of the worst of the suffering. These included poorly devised and managed job creation schemes such as building roads in rural areas. One such road, built in 1847 to make it easier for travelers to move between Cork and Kerry, became known as The Healy Pass. It was named after a Bantry-born politician and the first Governor General of the Irish Free State, Timothy Michael Healy (1855-1931), who petitioned for its construction. A plaque in Bantry’s town center marks his contribution.

The Healy Pass cuts through the Caha mountains on the Beara Peninsula. It offers beautiful views of the Cork-Kerry countryside as well as a few nervous moments to inexperienced drivers! Fine weather is rare in these parts, but on a good day there is nothing better than pulling into one of the parking spots and walking over the hills to the road’s highest elevations. The going was boggy last week when I was there, and the sky stayed clear for only a few minutes before the inevitable rain showers started, but who cares in a place of such extraordinary beauty?

I’ve been traveling to these parts since I was a boy, often using Bantry or nearby Glengarriff as my base. It’s a region with something for everyone. Unbeatable scenery, outstanding walking, hiking, and fishing, a rich cultural scene, great food – West Cork has it all.

Bait Elowal

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The Arabic word Bait means house or home. Elowal is a more difficult word to translate, but Emiratis use it to describe travelers returning home, bringing with them gifts, stories, and memories from the journeys they have taken. Bait Elowal opened recently in the heart of Sharjah and is designed to evoke the rich trading heritage of this part of the world and its ancient links with places like Morocco and India. Its heart is a traditional Emirati house located alongside Sharjah Creek which has been transformed to include a restaurant, some small stores selling books, accessories and clothing, and a cultural space decorated with local art.

It is the brainchild of Sheikha Bodour Al Qasimi, a daughter of Sharjah’s Emir, and herself a committed traveler. She has created a magical space, filled with warmth and color, that reminds visitors of Sharjah’s long and extensive connections to the region and the world. I had dinner there recently and was given a tour of the premises beforehand. The food was exceptional, surpassed only by the kindness and hospitality of my hosts. I recommend it to anyone who finds themselves in Dubai or Sharjah. Stop for a meal, buy a book by a local author, or just marvel at the beauty of the space.