Lost London

Somewhere between five and seven thousand buildings are demolished in London every year. Most of those torn down and replaced will not be mourned or even remembered. They are little more than the casualties of a city going about the never-ending business of change. Some buildings, however, qualify as “lost”. Buildings of such importance, whether especially beautiful, interesting, or unusual, that their loss through fire, war or, more often, the carelessness and greed of city developers and planners is remembered or regretted for generations. Fourteen churches built by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire of London were demolished in the second half of the 19th century, many of them for no better reason than money was needed to build churches in the so-called godless suburbs while congregations in the capital dwindled. (A further fifteen were destroyed in the German bombardments of the Second World War). The losses are not just churches, but private homes, civic buildings, offices and industrial buildings; all erased in the name of progress and often repented in the years that follow. The careless destruction of significant buildings throughout the UK led in previous generations to the creation of conservation groups whose work has undoubtedly saved treasures from the wrecking ball and helped raise awareness of the importance of balancing the new and the old, progress and preservation, in the life of a great city.

Paul Knox, a British-born academic working in the United States, tells the story of twenty-five of London’s lost buildings. Some are probably quite well known to a wide audience, like Crystal Palace and the Army & Navy Club. Others are wonderful surprises, even to those of us born and raised in London. Two stood out for me as especially intersting. The first was the train station in Waterloo, now long abandoned, that was used exclusively to take corpses and mourners from London to the huge burial ground in Brookwood. The second was Columbia Market. This vast, elaborate, Gothic structure, was constructed in Bethnal Green and was the brainchild of do-gooding philanthropists determined to eradicate the chaotic, unsanitary, but much-loved street markets of East London. The idea failed within a few years and the remarkable building was eventually torn down.

Lost London is a book that ought to appeal to anyone who loves urban history or architectural history, but most of all to anyone who loves London, a city changing constantly and conserving carefully, a city filled with built treasures (old and new), and a place of endless fascination to those of us who know and love it.

London Falling

London Falling. What’s the meaning of that title? The tragic fall to his death from a luxury apartment block of a young man? The sinister decline in London’s reputation as it welcomed without question or scrutiny the influx of Russian oligarchs, their dubious money, and even more dubious morals? Or just a nod to the apocalyptic warnings in The Clash’s famous song, London Calling?

The ice age is coming, the sun’s zooming in
Engines stop running, the wheat is growing thin
A nuclear error, but I have no fear
‘Cause London is drowning, and I, I live by the river
.

And what type of book is this? A story about the agonies and frustrations of parenting? An investigation into police incompetence? A warning about the dangers facing young men growing up surrounded by false promises, lies, unattainable aspirations, and charlatans? A critique of the politicians and financiers in awe of money and careless about where it comes from? In truth, Patrick Radden Keefe’s new book is all of these things and much more. What happened to Zac Brettler that night in November 2019 was a chilling and heartbreaking human tragedy for his parents, brother, and friends. For all of us it ought to be a warning and an alarm call.

Anyone who read Say Nothing will know how good a reporter Patrick Radden Keefe is. London Falling certainly matches and perhaps exceeds that achievement, and that’s saying something. He has a genuine interest in and compassion for his subjects, matched by the appetite for detail and the relentlessness that are the hallmarks of great investigative journalists. He also writes very well, pacing and shaping the story with meticulous care and skill.

I suppose it could be argued that he “overcooks” the account, setting up for the reader a mystery that will never be solved. Perhaps, but it is such a great story and told with a lot of compassion and just enough anger. We all need to know what happened to Zac even though we may never understand it. And we all need to be told just how wicked, greedy, and corrupt some people can be.

Back to the Local

It was clever of Faber & Faber to re-publish Maurice Gorham’s delightful book on London’s pubs. Back to the Local was first published in 1949 (with its illustrations by Edward Ardizzone) and even then had a whiff of nostalgia about it. Gorham mourned the destruction of some of his favorite pubs in World War Two and complained about the changing habits that had led to the modernization and gentrification of others, all the while celebrating what he loved and wanted to see preserved. It’s fun to wonder what he would make of things seventy-five years on.

Londoners love their pubs and tend to be sentimental about them. Every generation discovers them and bemoans the changes they see. For myself, I celebrate the survival of the true neighborhood local. Even today there are more of them than one might think. Of course, like everyone, I deplore the trends that some others might cherish – the sports bars, the themed pubs, the fake “historical” pubs, and so on. Gorham’s little book is a fun reminder that preferences and prejudices are what being a London pub lover is all about. If one pub is not to your liking, move on to one of the other 3,500 that London has to offer.

Nicholas Hawksmoor: London Churches

I can hear the bell of St. Anne’s, Limehouse tolling as I write. The church is preparing to celebrate its 300th anniversary, and every time I walk past it, I imagine what the local people must have thought back in the 1720s when this monumental structure started to take shape around them. Even today, with Canary Wharf’s glass and steel towers looming in the distance, St. Anne’s holds its place proudly, but three centuries ago it must have been nothing short of astounding.

I was inside St. Anne’s recently to see an exhibition of photographs taken by Helene Binet and displayed to mark a project to restore all of Nicholas Hawksmoor’s extraordinary London churches. Hawksmoor was the great beneficiary of Queen Anne’s so-called Fifty Churches Act of 1711. The grandiose project envisioned originally never came to full fruition. Only twelve churches were completed. Nevertheless, the vision gave us what many today call the Hawksmoor Six: St. Anne’s, Limehouse, St. Alfege in Greenwich, St. George-in-the-East, Christ Church, Spitalfields, St. Mary Woolnoth, and St. George’s, Bloomsbury. We can add the decommissioned church of St. Luke’s, Old Street, and the now demolished St John Horsleydown, but it’s the Six that most people know and that are the subject of the conservation effort.

As I strolled around looking at the huge, imposing photographs, and reading about the restoration appeal, I got talking to a volunteer who alerted me to a wonderful book by Mohsen Mostafavi and Helene Binet, Nicholas Hawksmoor: London Churches. Binet’s sharp black-and-white photographs steal the show here, but the floor plans and stylized outlines of each church are also rendered beautifully, and are accompanied by short essays. No book can do justice to the splendors of these remarkable and precious churches, but when I’m away from London I like to dip in to London Churches to remember them.