Whenever I visit Venice, I am struck by how tourists behave. They flock in huge numbers to St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto bridge, but rarely venture to other neighborhoods rich in atmosphere and treasures like Cannaregio or Dorsodouro. I have no idea why that is, but it does make it quite easy, at least in the off peak seasons, to avoid the crowds for the most part. I had three wonderful days there recently, skipping the most congested spots and taking in areas that happen to be my favorites. One highlight was my first ever visit to Museo Fortuny. Although located in the St. Mark’s sestiere, it’s in a small, quiet square that seems to attract few visitors.

The museum, based in the Palazzo Pesaro Orfei, was the workshop and home of Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949). Today it celebrates Fortuny’s promiscuous talents and interests which ranged from theatre design to photography, painting to fabrics. It also offers a chance to see the interior of a wonderful 15th century palace. Anyone whose tastes go in the direction of textiles, art, and photography should put the Museo on the top of their “must see” lists in Venice. Pick the right moment and you might have the glorious place all to yourself!