Even Cork’s greatest admirer would struggle to say the city is a pretty one. The dominant theme is one of grayness. Gray buildings under skies that are often that particular gray that signals rain. It can all seem a little grim at times in the city center, somewhat neglected and shabby. But whatever it might lack in prettiness, Cork has character, charm, and energy in abundance.

For decades the city has been little more than the beginning of my frequent trips further west, but recently I had the opportunity to spend a couple of days there, and I enjoyed it very much. The food scene is vibrant (highlights included Goldie and Nano Nagle Cafe), and there is, of course, no shortage of historic pubs. Sin E for traditional music, The Oval, Mutton Lane, and Arthur Maynes for unique atmosphere and craic in general. The Crawford Art Gallery is an unmissable spot and I was delighted to visit before it closes for major restoration work. Tempting as it might be to skip the city en route to the glories and splendors of West Cork, that would be a mistake. Linger a little and let it work its magic.