More than twenty-five years have passed since I was last in Valencia. I remember very little of that first visit. Only the busy central market with its food sellers has stayed in my memory, so the few days I spent there in the warm, late May sunshine had the feel of a first encounter.

Although the city as a whole is spread out over a wide area, the historical centre of Valencia with its narrow streets can easily be walked in a day and is kind to pedestrians. Relatively few cars intrude and one gets the sense of a city organized intelligently and sensitively with the needs of both residents and visitors in mind. Its manageable size and its undeniable prettiness have put the city on the destination lists of “city break” tourists, so expect large numbers in the warmer months. They tend to concentrate around the major historical sites (the Cathedral and central market, for example) and larger squares, but should you wish to avoid the crowds it’s easy enough to do so by walking into the charming residential areas just outside the centre. Early mornings, as the Valencians are getting about their business and while most visitors are still sleeping, are the best time to enjoy the historic centre.

My favorite places? The Iglesia San Juan del Hospital, founded in the 13th century and reputedly the oldest church in the city, is wonderful, and all the more so for being tucked away on a narrow street. The Centro del Carmen de Cultura Contemporanea (CCCC) is housed in a 13th century convent and is home to a changing program of contemporary art exhibitions. Go early and enjoy the calm of its cloisters, and don’t forget to have paella (but only for lunch, never for dinner).