My goals had been limited. A visit to Hauser & Wirth’s gallery, followed by lunch, and then on to Wells and its lovely cathedral. But Bruton proved to be a little gem, so we lingered longer than planned. The exhibition at Hauser & Wirth’s Somerset outpost at Durslade Farm (GRUPPENAUSSTELLUNG) was wacky, funny, and thought-provoking, and the site itself pretty and picturesque. Heading into the small town center, we parked close to St. Mary’s church just as its bell was tolling for the Sunday morning service. Pevsner calls St. Mary’s “one of the proudest churches of East Somerset”, and I know what he means. It occupies a prominent position overlooking the river and is clearly the focal point of the town. I explored the interior once the service had ended. Although its 14th century core has been much added to over hundreds of years, it presents as a harmonious and satisfying whole.

The main streets of Bruton are as pretty as can be, conforming to most people’s image of what a small, ancient, English town should look like. It’s clearly prosperous and enjoying its reinvention as a destination for art connoisseurs and food lovers. We had made a lunch reservation in advance at Osip, and what an inspired choice that proved to be. Outstanding food and service – not to be missed if you find yourself in this part of Somerset. Another stroll after lunch around the lovely, quiet streets, and then off to Wells as planned. A special day in a really charming town.