Some attractions seem more attractive if you arrive by boat. It was a beautiful, warm, sunny evening when I stepped on to the dock and strolled up the short path leading to the Thielska Galleriet. The museum had been opened to us for a private visit, and we had the great privilege of being able to walk around the rooms without crowds.

The house itself dates back to 1907 and was the home of Ernest Thiel, a wealthy banker, and his wife Signe Maria. It was built in part to showcase their splendid art collection and has been carefully preserved in its original style. For many visitors the centerpiece at Thielska is the collection of paintings by Munch, including his extraordinary portrait of Nietzsche. If all you know of his work is The Scream, the lightness of some of Munch’s work here will be a revelation. There is sculpture in the pretty garden, including work by Rodin.