We left Apollo Bay just as the influx of post-Christmas visitors arrived for the area’s peak holiday period. We had seen the town at its best – on warm, sunny days when the neighboring beaches were quiet and getting a dinner reservation was easy. The town is a good base from which to explore not just the shoreline but also some of the wonders inland. Don’t miss the lovely waterfalls (we went to Hopetoun Falls, a 40 minute drive from Apollo Bay, but there are several others) and Mait’s Rest, a spectacular boardwalk through ancient rain forest.

One attraction where it is impossible to avoid crowds is The Twelve Apostles, the spectacular limestone stacks near Port Campbell. Don’t be deterred. You’re very unlikely to be there alone, but nothing can take away from what has to be one of the most impressive pieces of coastline you will ever see. We assumed it would be quiet there on Christmas Day. We were wrong, but no matter. The Apostles are an unforgettable sight, as is London Bridge just a few miles away.