The stretch of the Thames between Putney and Hammersmith bridges is typically quiet on a Sunday morning. Little disturbs the surface of the sludgy brown water, other than the occasional crew from one of the many rowing clubs based on this part of the river. It’s a pretty and peaceful place to walk. Plane, ash, and willow trees overhang the path near Bishop’s Park and residents have planted gardens of wildflowers. Swans, ducks, and geese are plentiful. Maybe that’s one reason why artists and writers have based themselves here for so long. William Morris lived at 26 Upper Mall for nearly twenty years and established his Kelmscott Press nearby at 16 Upper Mall in 1891. Eric Ravilious lived just around the corner. Today it’s a haven for those walking their dogs or those looking for a pint in one of the many 18th century pubs close to Hammersmith Bridge (The Dove and The Blue Anchor are especially good). For the lucky few, there’s a table at the famed River Cafe.

The Thames is one of London glories. After centuries of neglect and pollution, a huge effort has been made to clean it up and make it more accessible to Londoners. That far-sighted investment has paid off. There’s nothing better than a walk along it to remind oneself that few, if any, cities can match London for beauty and tradition. I don’t even pretend to be impartial …