The early morning ferry from Circular Quay to Manly was almost empty. It edged its way slowly between the opera house and a visiting cruise ship and picked up speed as it found more open water. Although the sky was blue and cloudless, it was a chilly early spring morning in Sydney and I wasn’t prepared to brave the ferry’s top deck. By the time I stepped off the boat and walked to Manly Beach, the day was starting to warm, but it was still a shock to see so many hardy surfers in what must have been freezing Pacific waters. I got a window table at The Pantry overlooking the beach and whiled away half an hour watching the dog-walkers and swimmers while I waited for my friends. On days like these it’s easy to see the appeal of Sydney’s lifestyle.
Later that day I took a bus to Bondi beach, the starting point for a coastal walk that took me to Tamarama, Mackenzies Bay, and Bronte. The beaches along the route are picture perfect. Wide stretches of clean, white sand pounded by white-fringed waves are a magnet for surfers and sun worshipers, both locals and visitors from around the world. Winter had loosened its grip on the southern hemisphere and given us warm sunshine, and people could start to imagine the summer ahead.
Later, back in Sydney’s central business district, it’s easy enough to forget that this is a city deeply connected to water, a place for open air living. Away from its harbor, wharves, and beaches, Sydney is a pretty but unexceptional place. Turns towards its water and face the immensity and beauty of the Pacific and it immediately becomes one of the most seductive and beautiful cities the world has to offer.



