After twenty-plus visits to Tokyo, I think I have quite a good grasp of the city’s main neighborhoods, but just like any other visitor my personal topography of Tokyo is shaped by what I do and enjoy.  For me, working in Tokyo means time in places like Nogizaka, Nihonbashi, and Aoyama. Fun means Ebisu, Hiroo, Daikanyama, and Nakameguro. The opportunity, and maybe the inclination, to explore new areas is limited, so it’s a treat when someone or something introduces me to somewhere new.

Kagurazaka is a small neighborhood within Shinjuku ward that was famous in the early 20th century for its numerous geisha houses.  It has a cultured feel today, perhaps because of the proximity of a number of university campuses and publishing houses, or maybe because it’s favored by French expatriates as a place to live.  At its heart you find a warren of narrow alleyways, inaccessible to cars, where several ryotei (traditional high-end Japanese restaurants) can be found.  It was one of these, Restaurant Kamikura, that took me to the neighborhood.  It’s an enchanting area, quieter than many in the city; a place for strolling, a coffee, and most likely an outstanding dinner.  I’m already looking forward to going back.