My last visit to Kyoto, little more than 24 hours squeezed in between business commitments in Tokyo, was back in 2016. Things were different this time. Three days with my family; an opportunity to explore this gorgeous city a little more fully, though still not nearly enough time to do justice to it. Getting to know Kyoto is a journey of many parts. Food, from the humble ramen shops to the exquisite kaiseki restaurants, the narrow streets of Gion with their tea shops and geisha, and, of course, the temples.  All 1,600 of them, from the smallest and most hidden to the grandest. These are the jewels of Kyoto. Two stood out for me on this visit.  First, Kennin-ji, founded in the thirteenth century and the oldest in Kyoto, with its gorgeous Zen gardens and stunning “twin dragon ceiling” painted by Koizumi Jensaku to mark the 800th anniversary of the temple’s foundation. Kennin-ji is easy to find at the far end of what is probably Gion’s most famous street, Hanami-koji, so it attracts plenty of visitors in peak seasons.  In contrast, Honen-in feels small, secluded, and private with its moss covered gateway and pretty paths. There were almost no other visitors the morning we were there, which only added to its allure and charm.

Temple hopping can make you hungry, so it’s just as well that Kyoto is a gastronome’s dream come true.  In whatever direction your tastes lead you – ramen, shabu-shabu, teppanyaki –  you’ll find hundreds of restaurants to satisfy every budget and longing and, if your experience is anything like ours, a warm welcome in every place.  A couple of beers in a tiny local’s bar on Hanamikoji-dori or the best paitan ramen you could hope to eat (in a small place on Shinbashi-dori) made for full stomachs and a few great memories of a truly wonderful city.