It snowed heavily on my second evening in Paris, the first snow in the city for five years according to the concierge.  The heavy, swirling snowflakes made St-Germain-Des-Prés, picturesque on any day, postcard perfect. Where better to watch this winter wonderland than from a great café?  Although they’re undeniably touristy, it’s hard to resist the romantic appeal of the literary and artistic cafés of St-Germain-Des-Prés.  But which to choose?  Café de Flore with its starry clientele going back to the 1890s or Deux Magots, much loved by the Surrealists?  Or maybe Brasserie Lipp if you feel like channeling the spirit of Hemingway?  I considered going to all of them, but that would have meant getting wet and cold, so I opted for Café de Flore and got a window seat from which I watched the Parisians rushing to the Metro.

The snow receded, so I ventured out into the early evening.  Is there anywhere in the world with a greater concentration of wonderful bookshops and galleries than St. Germain?  I visited an old favorite (Galerie Maeght on Rue du Bac) and made some new favorites. What better way to end a bitterly cold evening than robust, country-style French cooking?  Earlier in the day I had stumbled across Cinq Mars, so I made sure I was waiting outside when it opened .  A good move – the restaurant was full within ten minutes of opening its doors. Pâté en croute, jugged hare, a glass of wine … la belle vie.