Here’s something I never thought I would say.  I’m starting to like Beijing.  I’ve been visiting once or twice a year for the past decade, usually staying a few days on each occasion, but I never formed much of a connection with the city.  I have to be honest – it has always struck me as a peculiarly featureless place, and the choking pollution and the horrible traffic haven’t helped much.

So, what’s changed?  Well, the weather for one thing. On my most recent visit, a warm sun shone every day in a bright blue sky and there was barely a trace of the smog that normally covers the city.  The lilac and cherry trees were heavy with blossom, brightening streets that previously seemed dull.  It’s hard to overstate what a difference these things made.  Beijing felt somehow washed or re-painted, making familiar places such as the Forbidden City look different.  Mutianyu, a section of The Great Wall that I’ve visited several times, was especially transformed.  As I walked along the wall with my family, it was possible to see distant stretches invisible on previous visits and get a glimpse of the extraordinary scale of the place.  Flowering cherry trees close to the wall made it even more picturesque.

Beijing will never be one of my favorite cities, but I’m going to try to be more even-handed about it in the future.  Go in the springtime and check the weather forecast – that’s my advice.