Exploring an unfamiliar neighborhood is one of my favorite things to do when I travel.  All the better if it’s a neighborhood that draws few other visitors.  I spent a little time recently in the 12th arondissement of Paris, a district with few attractions on a typical tourist’s “must-see” list.  It has the Bois de Vincennes, L’Opéra de Bastille, and not much else, but I had a wonderful few hours threading my way through the mostly quiet streets of a mostly residential neighborhood.  On a chilly Wednesday evening in late November, many of the locals were sensibly holed up in small, unassuming bars and brasseries.  Others were checking out the cute, artisan stores in Le Viaduc des Arts.

If, like me, you find yourself getting hungry and thirsty wandering around Le 12eme, I recommend two places very highly.  Chez Habibi on Rue Traversière is one of those perfect, tiny wine bars that only Paris produces, and to round off your evening, head to Maguey on Rue de Charenton and check out their “mystery menu”.  You won’t be disappointed.